Sewing machine



F. ASHWORTH Dec. 29, 1931.

SEWING MACHINE Filed April 5, 1924 7 Sheets-Sheet 1 Dec. 29, 1931'.

F. ASHWORTH SEWING MACHINE 7 Sheets-Shef-z'cv 2 e7z0 mZm/w r ai mm www@ Filed ril 5, 1924 /@zess /afM/wy Dec. 29,1931. Y F. A'SHWQRTH 1,838,088

k SEWING MACHINE April 5 Fi Sheets-Sheet 3 Dec. 29, 1931. F. AsHwoRTH 1,838,088

' SEWING MACHINE Filed April 5, 1924 7 sheets-sheet 4 Dec. 29, 1931. F. AsHwoRTH 1,838,083

SEWING MACHINE Filed April 5, 1924 '7 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fa/@nbr Dec. 29, 1931. F. AsHwoRTl-l SEWING MACHINE Filed April 5, 1924 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 Dec. 29, 1931. F. AsHwoRTH 1,838,088

SEWING MACHINE Fil'ed April 5, 1924 '7 Sheets-Sheet 7 gjajgllw Jg/z ,13551592 Patented Dec. .29, 1931 raises@ rarest ortica etarras FRED AS-1W ORTH, OF BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MA- CHINERY CGRPORATION, F PATERSON, NEWy JERSEY, A CORPORATION' OF NEW JERSEY Application filed April 5,

The invention relates to hook needie sewing machines suoli as are used in the manufacture of boots and slices.

The invention may be utilized with particular advantage in machines designed for doing stab shank worlr although not confined in its application to suclimachines. In doing this class of work the outsole is Vsecured to the shoe through the shank portions by lo lock stitch seams passing through the outsole, upper' and insole or in some cases through the outsole andy upper only. ,Malchines for doing this worli are therefore provided with a worlr supporting horn adapted to enter the shoe and support it b y engagement with the insole or interior of the upper.

'Certain features of the invention provide stitch forming mechanism which is well adapted for rapid and eiiicient operation in 22 this type of machine, other features provide simple, eiiicient and durable work feeding devices for this type of machine, while ystill other features enable the operator to conveniently and readily remove the work from the horn after the seam is completed.

The invention is illustrated in the accom'- panyiiig drawings as embodied iii a lock stitch sewing machine adapted for stab shank worh.4 Figure 1 is a right hand side elevation of the machine.; 2 a left hand side elevation; Fig. 3 a front elevation; nig. 4 a horizontal sectional view on line 4-4 of Fig. 3; 5 a diagrammatic view showing the bottom of the insole andthe location of the seamsewed along the shank portion; Fig. 6 vertical sectional view online 6-6,.Fig. 2; Fig. 7 a horizontal sectional view on line 77, Fig. 2; Fig. 8 a vertical sectional View on line 8-8, Fig. 3; Fig. 9 a detail sideelevation showing the mechanism for unlocking and li ft-ing the presser footand. throwing off the tension; and Figs. 10 to 18 inclusive are diagrammatic views showing the mode of operation of thev stitch forming and work feeding devices. i

rThe machine shown is provided with a curved hook needle 2, needle guide 4, shuttle 6, thread spreader 8, presser foot 10. thread lock 12, pull-off 14 and take-up 16, all of which have the same construction as corre- SEWING MACHINE 1924. serial No. 704,414.

sponding parts in the machine shown and de- Crihed in 1Eatent No. 473,870 dated April 26, 1892, and all of which areopei'ated from the cani shaft 18 through connections fully'shown and described in lsaid patent.

To adapt the machine for stab shank work, ii is provided with a work supporting horn 20 adaptedto enter an unlasted shoe and suplport it by engagement with the insole or by engagement with the upper just outside the insole. The horn is secured to the. upper end of abase in the form of a post 22 and is pro'- vided with a throat or opening 24 for the passage of the needle.

The needle is threaded by a forkedloo-pei' 2G mounted within the horn to move laterally across the line of feed and place the thread in the needle hook with a minimum move,-

nient `loeyond the needle when at the end of its work piercing stroke. This form of looper thus enables the seam to be conveniently located by the operator close to (or even beyond) theledge of the insole, as indicated in Figs. 10 to 18, while guiding the `work by eiigagement of the edge of the outsole with a guide 28 on the rear vof the presser foot or by engagement of the channel with the outer edge of the presser foot. A thread measuring fingerBO is also arranged within the horn .to move laterally in the line of feed in drawingthe thread and thus position it acrossthe fork of the looper. To facilitate the action of thethread finger indrawiiig its thread, the

looper is given avertical or longitudinal movement in thedirection of the lead of the thread so that the thread lingerdraws the thread vobliquely instead of directly across the end .of thelopper. Avertically and laterally reciprocating awl 82 is also arranged within the work; g s t y The 'awl is secured to Athe upper end of an awl bar 34 mounted in a vertical guideway 36 horn and operates to feed 1the at the end of an arm 38 which projects from feed slide 40. The feed slide is mounted Y inn 48 extending between pins 50 inserted in holes in the plate 52 on the feed slideA and deter-` lever 62 and a link 64 which connects the le- Ver with an arm 66 on the rock shaft.

The looper comprises a vertically arranged finger, the upper end of which is forked to embrace the needle, one arm of the fork being perforated for the passage of the thread and the other being notched to engage the thread drawn laterally by the thread linger. The lower end of the looper is'secured in the `upper end of a vertical looper arm 68, the lower end of which is pivoted to a vertically movable lever 70. The front end of the lever is pivoted at 7 2 to the-base 22 and the rear end of the lever is connected by a link 7 4 with the arm 66 of the rock shaft 58. Through this connection Vwith the shaft 58, the looper is moved vertically toward the work as the awl withdraws and the needle advances through the work and is'moved vertically away from the work as the awl advances and the needle is retracted. The looper is given its lateral movement to place the thread in the hook of the needle by a cam slot 76 formed in the looper arm and engaged by a iiXed pin 78 projecting from a bracket 8O secured to the post 22. The upper portion of the slot 76 is vertical while the lower end is laterally inclined so that the looper will move vertically into position in front of the needle and then laterally to carry the thread against the needle and into position to enter its hook, as indicated in Figs. 16 and 18.

The thread linger 30 is carried on the upper end of a vertical lever 82 which is pivoted at 84 in a bracket 86 secured to the side of the awl bar guideway 36 and the lower end 0f which carries a roll engaging a cam groove 88 formed in a cam segment 90 which is secured to the rock shaft 58. Lateral movement in the line of feed is thus' imparted to the thread finger by the reciprocation of the feed slide and also by the inclined part of the cam groove 88.

. The mode of operation of the devices operating within the horn is indicated diagrammatically in Figs. 10 to 18. In Figs. 10 and 11 the awl, looper and thread inger are shown in their relative positions after the completed stitch has been set and the awl has moved back preparatory to the neXt feed and has partially advanced toward the work, the looper having been partially retracted away from the work and the thread linger having been partially retracted by the return movement of the feed slide and awl. The awl then advances through the work, the looper completes its movement away from the work and the backward movement of the thread finger is completed by the action of the inclined portionof the cam groove 88 on the thread finger lever, the position of the parts at this stage being shown in Figs. 12 and 18. The awl is then moved to feed the work and during this movement the thread linger is moved toward the thread which leads from the looper to the previous stitch, the position of the parts at this stage being shown in Figs. 14 and 15. The awl is then retracted and the needle advanced through the work. During the lirst part of the downward movement of the awl and the first part of the upward movement of the looper, the inclined part of the cam groove 88 swings the thread finger laterally into the position indicated in Fig. 17, the thread drawing obliquely and freely through the hole in the looper as the looper is advancing from its lowest position indicated in Fig. 15 toward its highest position indicated in Fig. l?. After the thread finger has drawn its thread, the upward movement of the looper and downward movement of the awl continues, bringing the parts into the position indicated in Figure 17. As the looper moves upward, the thread leading from the hole in the looper to the thread finger lays across the fork at the end of the looper and during the final upward movement of the looper it is moved laterally across the line of feed carrying the thread against the needle and into position to be engaged by its hook, as indicated in Figs. 16 and 18. The needle then retracts drawing the loop of thread through the work and into position to be taken by the thread spreader 8 and presented to the shuttle, and the awl moves back preparatory to the next feed.

As shown in full lines in Fig. 2, the needle thread leads from the usual wax pot, not shown, about the tension wheel 92, over the roll of the pull-off 14, about the roll 94 .of the thread lock, over guide roll 96, take-up roll 16 and guide roll 98 to an auxiliary spring operated take-up 160, from which it leads to .the looper. ln doing certain classes of work, it is desirable to set the stitch by the take-up directly against the tension instead of against a threadlock, thus avoiding the use of a thread pull-off controlled from the presser foot. Such a construction is indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 2 which show the thread leading from the tension wheel directly to the guide roll 96.l This manner of setting the stitch avoids the formation of one or more comparatively loose stitches at the beginning of the seam, such as frequently occur when utilizing a thread lock and a pull-off which pulls od' a length of thread measured by the position of the presser foot. The provision 'up thus uniformly avoided.

is shown in Fig. 9.

foot locking levers.

`the limit of its movement against the tension of its spring at the beginning of the seam and the presence of any slackness in the thread betweentlie work and the tension (or thread lock) during the initial operation of the take- To facilitate thefremoval of the work .at the completion ofthe seam, treadle operated meansv is provided through which the operator may unlock land lift the presser foot and throw off the tension while having both hands free for manipulating and moving `the shoe. An embodiment of such means lever 104 is mounted on the pivotal support 106y for the presser foot levers and isprovided at its lower end with fingers 108 arranged to engage pins 110 on the presser foot locking pawls 112 and disengage these pawls from the ratchets 114 on the presser rEhe upper end of the lever 104 is pivoted to the lower 'end of a lever 116which is in turn pivotally connected tothe forward end of a spring pressed bar 118. The upper end.' of the lever 116 is connected by a cord 120 with a trcadle 122 ai ranged at the base of the machine. rlhe pivot pin 124 which connects the lever 116 with the bar 118 projects laterally into position to engage an arm 126 secured to the presser foot lever. Wien the treadle is de` pressed, the lever 116 is rocked about the pivot 124, thus rocking the lever 104 to disengage the presser foot locking pawls and then a projection 128 on the lever 104 engages a fixed stop 130 which prevents further movement of the lever 104. The lever 116 then rocks about its pivotal connection with the lever 104 so that the pin 124 acts on the arm 126 to raise the presser foot. The treadle 122 is also connected by a rod 132 with the horizontal arm of a bell crank lever 134 which operates to disengage the spring pressed friction disk 127 from the hnb of the tension wheel 92 and thus throw off the tension. leasing rod 132 is slotted at 136to provide a limited lost movement between the treadle and rod so that the first downward movement of the treadle releases and raises the presser foot after which continued movement throws y olf the tension.

What is claimed is z l 1. A sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a forked looper longitudinally movable, and also movable laterally .across the line of feed, and a thread finger movable with relation to the looper As herein shown, *aV vthread finger has acted.

The lower end of the tension res.

and engaging the-thread between-the looper and the work. L 2. A sewingmachiiie having, in combination, a hook needle, a forked looper, a thread finger arranged to engage the thread between the looper andthe workv and movable laterally to draw thread through the looper and across its fork, and mechanism for moving the looper toward and away from the work and laterally across Atheline of feed.

3. A sewing machine havng,`in combination,;a hook needle, atliread linger-arranged to engage the thread between the looper and the work, a. forked looper movable toward and away from the work, means' for moving the thread finger laterally to draw thread through y the looper when retracted, and means for advancing the looper and moving it laterally across the line of feed after the 4. `A sewing machine having, in combination, a needle on one side of the work, an awl,thieadfinger and forked'looperon the other side of thework., and mechanism for advancing and retracting the awl and for moving the looper away from the work as 4the awl advances and 'for moving it toward the work and laterally across the line lof feed as the awl retracts.

5. A sewing machine having, in combinar moving the awl and looper alternately toward and from the work and for moving the thread finger laterally in the line of feed to draw thread through the looper while retracted. I

6. A sewing machinehaving, in combinatiion, a hook needle, a work supporting horn 'i anda forked looper 'and thread finger within the horn,fthe thread finger being movable with vrelation to the looper and arranged to engage the thread between the looper and the work.

7. A sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a. work supporting horn, and av forked looper, thread finger and work feeding awl within the horn, the thread finger being movable with-relation to the looper and arranged to engage the thread between the looper and the work. 1

8. A sewing machinev having, in combination, a hook needle, a work supporting horn,

means within the horn for threading the needle, a` feed slide, and an awl mounted slide within the horn.

9. A sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, awo'rk supporting horn,

on the means within the horn for threading the needle, a feed slide having an arm extending into the base ofthe horn,-and anawlcarrying bar mounted to reciprocate inthe arm'.

10. A sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a. workl supporting horn, 4

tion, a hook needle, a work supporting horn,

a feed slide, an awl bar and a thread linger -mounted on the slide within the horn, a rock shaft connected to reciprocate the bar and to oscillate the threadlinger, and a. looper withinthehorn. .Y i

12. A sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle,`a work supporting horn, an awl, thread finger and looper within the horn, and a rock shaft connected to recipro` cate the awl, actuate the looper and oscillate the thread finger. Y

13. A .sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a work supporting horn, a feed slide, an awl bar mounted to recipro- Ycate inthe slide and operating within the horn, a thread fingery within the horn, a looper within the horn, a rock shaft provided with a gear segment engaging rack teeth on the bar, a cam for oscillating the thread finger, and an arm connected to oscillate the looper.

14. A sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle reciprocating through the work in a substantially vertical direction, a Vthread linger movable With relation to the looper and engaging the thread between the looper and the work, a vertically reciprocating looper arm, a forked looper at the end of the arm, and means for moving the looper end of the arm laterally across the line of feed to thread the needle.

15. Asewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle reciprocating through the work in a substantially vertical direction, a vertical looper arm provided with a guiding slot having a lateral olf-set at one end, a

against the tension, an auxiliary spring take- -up, and a clip for holding the end of the needle thread against the pull of the auxiliary take-up during the sewing of vthe initial stitches.

19. A sewing machine having, in combina tion, a hook needle, a shuttle, a work supporting horn, a'presser-foot, a looper and thread finger within the horn, a tension for the needle thread, a take-up, mechanism for actuating and locking the presser-foot, a treadle, and connections between the treadle and presser-foot actuating and locking mechanism and tension actuated directly by the movement of the treadle for unlocking and lifting the presser-foot and releasing the tension.

20. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism including a hook needle, a shuttle, a thread linger, a looper, a tension for the needle thread, a work support, a presser-foot, mechanism for actuating and locking the presser-foot, va treadle, and connections between the treadle and the presser-foot actuating and locking mechanism and tension actuated directly by the movement of the treadle for unlocking and lifting the presser-'foot and releasing the ten- S1011.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

F RED ASHWORTH.

forked looper at the end of the arm, a vertical oscillating lever connected to theother end of the arm, and a pin engaging the slot in .the looper arm.

16. A sewing machine having, in combinan tion, a hook needle, a shuttle, a presser foot, a work supporting horn, and an awl, forked .looper and thread arm operating within the horn, the thread linger being movable with relation to the looper and-arranged to engage the thread between the looper and the work.

. .17. A sewing machine having, in combina tion, a hook needle, a shuttle, a work supporting horn, a looper and thread finger within vthe horn, a take-up, an auxiliary spring taketion, a hook needle, a shuttle, a work supporting horn, a looper and thread finger within the horn, a tension for the needle thread a take-up arranged to set the stitch directly 

